Project: A Dancer's Tailcoat
|The underarm curves up instead of down for a built-in gusset.|
Additionally, it needed some modifications to the traditional suiting shape. For one, it's very fitted to the body. Second, I included gussets into the under-sleeve pattern. It seems counter-intuitive, but you actually want to make the garment closer fitting in the underarm to allow for the most movement. The gusset fills in the hole made if you were to cut open the underarm when the arm is raised.
Another difference between this tailcoat and traditional suit construction was lack of innerfacing. Tailored suits have a ridiculous amount of innerfacings to maintain shape. If I used innerfacings in this, all the advantage I gained from the stretch fabrics would be lost.
The best part, though, is that unlike most suiting, this coat is completely machine washable. This is a necessity for dancewear.
|Isn't he cool! I made the tights, too.|